Higashi Chaya-gai is a beautifully preserved historical area of Kanazawa with many traditional wooden buildings. This area was established in 1820 as an entertainment district for rich merchants and nobility.
The wooden lattice fronted teahouses of Higashi Chaya-gai
The name Higashi Chaya-gai literally means “Eastern Teahouse District,” because the chaya, or teahouses, were where wealthy customers would be entertained by geisha with traditional music, dancing, and drinking games. Many of these buildings have been converted into restaurants or souvenir craft shops, but there are two geisha teahouses that are open to the public during the day. In this article we will introduce Higashi Chaya-gai’s chief highlights.
Ochaya Shima is a historical geisha house built in 1820 and preserved as a museum. It is a National Important Cultural Asset and an essential stop when visiting this area. Here you can see how the geisha lived and worked and enjoy a cup of green tea with a sweet for an additional fee. The house is open from 9.30 – 17.30 from March through November, and from 9.30 – 17.00 from December through February. Entry costs 500 yen for adults and 300 yen for visitors aged 16 and under. For more details see our article: Ochaya Shima Geisha House.
Kaikaro is a working geisha house that is open to the general public during the day. At night, private banquets and geisha entertainment are by introduction or advance arrangement. However, this house does host ticketed geisha events that anyone can attend. Building tours are available from 10.00 – 17.00, with last entry at 16.30, and entry costs 750 yen for adults, 500 yen for children or students, and is free for preschool children. Kaikaro is usually closed on Wednesdays, but business days may vary by season or event schedule. For further details see our article: Kaikaro Geisha Teahouse.
Gold Leaf Sakuda sells many goods decorated with gold leaf, which is a traditional craft dating back 400 years in Kanazawa. At the main store you can take a tour of the factory, view the production process, and reserve a hands-on gold leaf decoration workshop. The store is generally open from 9.00 – 18.00, with seasonal variation possible, and workshops start from 1,430 yen. For further details see our article: Gold Leaf Sakuda Main Store.
Kintsuba Nakataya
Kanazawa has a long tradition of sweet making which was first sponsored by the ruling Maeda family. These wagashi, or traditional sweets, developed together with the tea ceremony because the bitter tea is always served with something sweet. Kintsuba Nakataya is a traditional sweets shop in Higashi Chaya-gai which sells a range of such traditional confectionery.
Kintsuba sweets made from adzuki beans
The shop’s specialty is kintsuba, a special confection of sweet adzuki beans wrapped in a wheat flour dough. Nakataya’s Higashiyama Chayagai shop is open from 9.00 – 17.00, and cafe last orders are at 16.00. Here is the official shop information.
Hakuichi gold leaf souvenir shop
A little further down the street from Kintsuba Nakataya is Hakuichi, a souvenir shop specializing in gold leaf products. The Higashiyama Store is well known for selling ice cream coated in edible gold leaf. The gold leaf itself doesn’t have much taste, but it does look impressive and the ice cream is delicious. The shop is open from 9.00 – 18.00, and gold-leaf soft ice cream is served until 17.00. The gold-leaf soft cream is listed at 1,189 yen, with discount-ticket offers sometimes available. Here is the official Hakuichi Higashiyama Store page.
A taste of luxury with gold leaf ice cream
Fukushima Sangenten
If you are interested in traditional Japanese music then you may want to pay a visit to the Fukushima Sangenten shop (also called Shamisen no Fukushima). This is the only shop in the Hokuriku area that specializes in making and selling the shamisen, a three stringed instrument which is similar in appearance to the banjo. The shamisen is a beautiful instrument which geisha must learn to play to entertain their clients. For a small fee of 500 yen you will be served matcha and a sweet on the 2nd floor of the shop, and there you can also try to play a shamisen yourself. The experience is offered from 13.00 – 16.00, takes about 30 minutes, and does not require reservations. Business days may vary, so check the official Fukushima Sangenten website before visiting.
Enjoying the shamisen experience
The Utatsuyama District
Higashi Chaya-gai is very popular with tourists and so it can get very crowded. Wander a little further north however, and you will find yourself in the quiet streets of the Utatsuyama temple district. There are more than 50 temples and shrines in this area, as well as many other fine historic buildings and so it is a lovely area for contemplative walking and simply seeing what you can find.
Entrance to Raikyoji temple
A traditional miso paste shop in the Utatsuyama district
When you have had enough of walking and sightseeing why not take a break at Café & Gallery Muku?
Café & Gallery Muku
The gallery and café occupy a renovated machiya, a traditional wooden townhouse, so it makes for an interesting spot in which to take a break and enjoy some refreshments. The gallery also exhibits local crafts and arts which could make for unique souvenirs. Muku is located on the edge of the Utatsuyama district on Higashiyama Street and is open from 11.00 to 17.00 and closed on Thursdays, though exhibition and event schedules may alter business days. Here is the official Café & Gallery Muku information.
Inside Muku broad wooden beams support the high ceiling
Access
To get to the Higashi Chaya-gai district from Kanazawa Station, take a Kanazawa Loop Bus, Hokutetsu local bus, or West JR bus from the East Gate / Kenrokuen Gate bus terminal to the Hashiba-cho bus stop. The Kanazawa Loop Bus flat fare is 220 yen for adults and 110 yen for children. From Hashiba-cho bus stop, the Higashi Chaya-gai area is about a 5 minute walk.
Article and original photos by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved. Last updated 01-Jun-2026.
